2021 Underwood 'Chalmers' Nebbiolo

This wine is grown on the new Chalmers Vineyard Nebbiolo planting in Colbinabbin, expertly farmed by Troy and Fleur McInnes for the Chalmers family. The vineyard contains a highly diverse array of clones. The vines go across the middle of the east-facing slope with an east-west orientation. The soils are ancient Cambrian meta-basalt, and this particular block is planted where the subsoils (greenstone and quartz) protrude through clay and silt. Pat views this parcel as the best for the variety in the region. He should know!

The most structured, high-acid clones were selected to produce perfumed and long-lived wine. The bunches were picked on 18th March before destemming and co-fermentation, with regular pumpovers, and occasional rack and return, over 21 days.

The wine was drained from the skins without pressing into stainless steel. It was periodically racked between stainless-steel vessels for two months before a year-long maturation in a new 2100-litre Garbelotto Slavonian oak cask.

Before filling, the cask was saltwater seasoned for two months to remove oak tannin and toasting char. Regular racking with small sulphur additions occurred during the maturation before bottling by hand on 25th June 2022.

"A stunner by any measure, but especially so for nebbiolo, revealing both its beauty and its power. An elegant and fragrant introduction in rose petal and musk, red licorice, bright red fruits and wild herbs. A lovely purity is displayed on the palate, aromatic, lifted, medium bodied and well shaped in ripe, cherry tannins. It's a fine-edged youngster tight in trademark nebbiolo acidity and one with a big future."

95 points, Jeni Port, Halliday Wine Companion