Hochkirch

Farmed by the family for generations, the 280-hectare Hochkirch property encompasses sheep, rare-breed pigs and cattle, alongside cereal crops. John Nagorcka originally planted the vineyard in 1990, according to the prevailing wisdom of the era: wide rows, generous vine spacing and high fruiting wires. Over time, however, he has steadily refined the viticulture. Today, rows are narrower, vines are planted more densely, and the fruiting zone sits lower to the ground — harder on the back, perhaps, but markedly better for wine quality.

Vine density now ranges between 5,000 and 6,000 vines per hectare, encouraging competition between vines and deeper root systems. Harvest decisions have evolved, too. Where Pinot Noir was once picked at 12–13° Baumé, Nagorcka now harvests closer to 10.5–11° Baumé, seeking brightness, savouriness and a finer balance rather than sheer weight. He attributes much of this shift to biodynamic farming.

Biodynamic certification followed in 2003, though the philosophical transition had begun long before the paperwork arrived. The Nagorckas are among the quiet pioneers of biodynamic viticulture in Australia, though neither John nor Jennifer would ever describe themselves that way. There is no evangelism here, no mysticism or theatricality — only close observation, practical farming and a deep commitment to vineyard health.

“My experience has been that, by using biodynamic methods successfully, we achieve better physiological ripeness at lower sugar levels,” says Nagorcka. “We also see a different quality of acidity — more vibrant, more mouth-filling — and those things are fundamental to good Pinot Noir.” That balance has become central to the Hochkirch style.

Today, the vineyards are managed by John’s son, Christian, continuing the family’s multigenerational stewardship of the property. The vines sit on north-facing slopes at approximately 260 metres above sea level, along an elevated plateau running south-west from Dunkeld at the foot of the Grampians. The own-rooted vines grow in gravelly loam over deep clay, with seams of weathered basalt beneath. Farming is entirely by hand and without irrigation.

In the cellar, the philosophy is one of restraint rather than technique. Fruit is harvested earlier than was once common, preserving acidity, fragrance and finesse. “We’re looking for more elegance,” Nagorcka says. “Picking earlier has given us brightness on the palate and better acid balance.” The remark neatly captures the Hochkirch aesthetic: wines shaped by tension, savour and detail rather than power.

The artisanal toolkit is deliberately modest: natural yeast fermentations, low sulphur additions — sometimes none at all — and a strong preference for older oak maturation. Everything here begins with farming, and the winemaking exists chiefly to preserve what the vineyard has already expressed.

No matter the variety, Hochkirch wines are fearlessly individual: deeply textural and alive with energy. They speak bravely of Henty’s cool winds and basalt-rich soils, not to mention the commitment of the people behind them. Anything less, says John Nagorcka, “and you’re short-changing the drinker.”