Txakoli is known in the bars of San Sebastian as the light and dry white with a sherbet fizz in a distinctive green bottle which they pour from a great height. This is something else entirely, the inland position gives the wine a more full and complex palate. With notes of resinous pine and a herbal character to complement the searing acidity, Bengoetxe is a unique beast in the world of wine. This high-acid wine needs salt and fat. Pork goes well, but it would be rude not to suggest fat Cantabrian anchovies from the tin.