‘Anything but chenin’, says winemaker/vigneron Jasper Button, to guffaws from all around the table. From the Commune Of Buttons farm in the Adelaide Hills, and from a patch of vineyard that is sandstone on clay and shorter rows of vines. Distinct from ‘Clover Chardonnay’. Commune Of Buttons makes some outstanding chardonnay wines, I say.
Sea spray, apple notes, scents of ginger and honey-lemon tea – a lovely perfume to set you up. The wine crackles in the palate with apple notes, fresh and dried, feels refreshing with ‘mineral’ elements, a core of lemon tartness all held over impressive length. There’s a wild streak here but the wine is utterly delicious, savoury-edged, mineral-charged. Brilliant wine. Mike Bennie, The Wine Front