2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Trois Sources
Black raspberry, black licorice, violets and salty minerality. Inredible purity and tannin structure. Full-bodied, concentrated and perfectly balanced with a multitude of layers and facets.
96 Points, Wine Spectator
Jean-Paul Daumen took over from his father in 1992 and has since become one of the most revered, inventive and respected producers in France. He is a thoughtful, intelligent and deeply caring vigneron, managing the beautiful estate of Domaine de la Vieille Julienne like a philosopher or poet. Daumen farms 10ha of biodynamic Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with an average vine age of 70 years. There is a stonethrow distance between his Châteauneuf-du-Pape & Côtes du Rhône appellations (3 metres to be precise), so it is not a surprise to Rhône lovers that both display the power and structure for which the region’s best wines are known.
Jean-Paul is aware of the unique nature of an estate property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, and started to change his methods of vinification and blending in 2010. He moved away from blending in the winery and put all his focus on balanced field blends in the vineyard; the process of blending is now on a parcel by parcel basis, and not based on a grape by grape variety choice.
Low yields are a priority at Vieille Julienne. Being held below 20hl per hectare, this leads to power, purity and concentration in his wines. The grapes are destemmed before co-fermentation in the cuverie, while aging takes place in a combination of foudres and old oak barrels. In short, these are “vineyard” wines of immense concentration, but little winery influence. In addition to his Vieille Julienne label, Jean-Paul is also making wines under his biodynamic negoc label Daumen. Even if these wines have the intention to be more accessible, they are anything but simple.