The Nicolay family has owned the legendary Domaine Chandon de Briailles since 1834 and as an outlet for Francois' desire to make fine natural Burgundies, he has created his own label whereby he vinifies biodynamic grapes from his neighbours in the family's ancient Savigny-les-Beaune cellars. Amazingly, he uses no sulphur and bottles by hand straight from the barrels.
You may be forgiven for expecting something wild and outside the box, but a craftsman like Nicolay doesn't do funky. These are incredibly classy and detailed wines made by a master of his craft. Burgundian through and through, the 2015 Mercurey speaks of forest floor, cherries and fine-grained leather. Tight and a little reductive on opening, but with a sharp freshness that can only be captured in no-so2 wines, this blossoms over 20-30 minutes to reveal a deep and rich palate of dark fruits and undergrowth, gorgeous.