The current release Brut Réserve is based on the 2018 vintage (65%) with the balance from the two previous vintages. The blend is split between 35% Pinot Noir from Montagne de Reims (specifically Ludes, Trépail and Ormes); 30% Chardonnay from sites across both Montagne de Reims and Vallée de la Marne; and 35% Pinot Meunier from Mareuil-le-Port in Vallée de la Marne. The average vine age is 30 years.
The fruit is hand-harvested, followed by a natural yeast fermentation in barrel, 24-36 months sur lattes in the Bérêche cellar, and finally, disgorgement by hand with seven grams per litre dosage. This is the kind of fastidious attention to detail you would expect from the finest prestige cuvées, and it shines through in the quality of the wine. The new release bursts out of the glass with exuberant notes of pink grapefruit, fuji apple and orange rind. The aromatics give way to an expansive, zesty and pithy mouthfeel. There is a core of fleshy fruit and a twist of salinity on the tangy, energetic finish. It is emotively rich in texture, and at the same time, insanely mouth-watering. This release also feels a little lower in pressure (than last year’s), which works beautifully at the table, and suits the excitable and racy nature of the wine. Simply put, it’s one of the most compelling introductions to grower Champagne on the market.